Most leather jackets descend from a handful of designs, nearly all of which were made for a job before they were made for a wardrobe. Knowing which is which makes the choice much simpler, because the differences are not decorative — they are structural, and they change how the jacket wears.
Café racer
The look: band collar, straight centre-front zip, minimal seaming, close through the body. No lapels, no belt, no epaulettes.
Where it came from: 1950s and 60s Britain. The Ton-Up boys rode between transport cafés on stripped-down bikes, and wanted a jacket with nothing to catch the wind and nothing to flap at 100mph. Every element that could be removed, was.
Who it suits: almost everyone, which is why it has become the default. It is the least costume-like of the leather jackets — it reads as outerwear rather than as a statement, and it works over a shirt or under a coat.
Watch for: it is close-fitting. If you want to layer a jumper underneath, size up. The clean lines also mean there is nowhere for poor cutting to hide — a café racer with seams across the chest has been pieced from small offcuts.
The traditional detail worth knowing about is the number roundel — a circular patch with a competition number, borrowed from 1960s racing. It is the one flourish that is authentic to the style rather than added to it.
Biker / double rider
The look: asymmetric front zip, wide snap-down lapels, waist belt, zipped cuffs, usually epaulettes and a D-pocket.
Where it came from: Schott's Perfecto, 1928, designed for Harley riders. Every feature is functional. The zip is off-centre so it does not press into your sternum when you lean over the tank, and so the storm flap can fold across without a gap. The belt cinches the hem against wind. The lapels snap down so they do not flog you in the face.
Who it suits: it carries the most attitude of any jacket in this list, which is either the point or the problem. It is substantial, best in heavier cowhide, and it looks better as it ages than any other style.
Watch for: the break-in. A proper cowhide double rider is stiff for a fortnight. That is correct — a soft one is a thin one.
Bomber
The look: ribbed collar, cuffs and hem, relaxed body, straight front zip. The MA-1 version adds a zip pocket on the left sleeve.
Where it came from: US military flight jackets. The A-2 was leather; the MA-1 was nylon and came later, designed for jet cockpits where the older shearling jackets were too bulky. The rib exists to seal the openings against cold air.
Who it suits: the easiest jacket here to wear. It is cut with ease, it does not demand a particular build, and it goes with almost anything. Currently the fastest-growing style in the category.
Watch for: the rib is where cheap bombers fail. If the rib has no recovery, the cuffs and hem go baggy within a season and the jacket looks tired regardless of how good the leather is. Stretch a cuff in a shop and see whether it returns. Also check the rib is dyed to match the shell — a black rib that reads slightly blue against black leather is very visible.
Aviator / shearling
The look: leather shell with a shearling collar, sometimes a full shearling lining. Usually brown.
Where it came from: the B-3 and Irvin flying jackets, made for unheated, unpressurised bombers at altitude. The shearling was not styling — it was the only thing between the crew and −40°C.
Who it suits: anyone who wants a leather jacket that genuinely works in winter. Most leather jackets are three-season garments; this is the exception.
Watch for: it is the bulkiest style here, and it looks it. A removable collar makes it far more versatile if you can find one.
Trucker
The look: shirt-style pointed collar, button or press-stud front, chest flap pockets, often a straight boxy body.
Where it came from: the denim jacket, translated into leather. Not a motorcycling garment at all, which is exactly its appeal for some.
Who it suits: anyone who finds the biker too loud and the café racer too fitted. It layers well and reads as casual rather than as a leather jacket per se.
Which one, quickly
| If you want… | Take a |
|---|---|
| Something that goes with everything | Café racer |
| Something with presence, that ages well | Double rider |
| Ease, and room to layer | Bomber |
| A jacket for actual winter | Aviator |
| Casual, unfussy, not obviously “a leather jacket” | Trucker |
One thing that applies to all of them
Whichever style you choose, the fit at the shoulder is the thing you cannot fix later. Sleeve length is easily altered, body length usually is, chest sometimes. Shoulders, never.
If it pulls across the back when you reach forward, it is too small. That is true of every jacket on this page, and it is the reason to measure before you buy rather than after.
See how to measure yourself for a leather jacket, or browse the range.